When someone thinks about the food in Argentina, beef is always the first thing to come to mind. Argentine´s claim it is the best in the world, and so do many foreigners. My personal opinion? It is excellent, but it is not the best in the world. I have tried steaks that are just as good in North America, where there is also some excellent, high quality beef. However, one of the great things about the beef here is high quality beef is easily accessible, and is not too expensive, especially when compared to other food prices. However, just like anywhere, the more you pay, the better the quality, and there is certainly meat that is not worth eating here.

You will find that Argentine beef is definitely a little different than beef in other parts of the world. First of all, in most parts of the world, the cattle tend to be grain fed. Here in Argentina, they have lots of space and the cattle is generally grass fed. Grass fed cattle usually has less marbling, and grows slower, meaning the beef that you eat is older. However, I´m not an expert on the process of Argentine beef, but somehow, they have beef with lots of marbling, and it is very very tender. Some rib eye and filet mignon steaks here practically dissolve in your mouth, and have a delicious buttery flavor!

The beef is nearly always cooked on BBQ using different types of charcoal, which gives it a nice smoky taste. They do not season the meat here, other than a little bit of salt. Be prepared for plain beef, there are no steak rubs here! I am quite fine with that, because the beef is so good, and it does have a great BBQ’d flavor. However, if you like a little flavor added to your meat, the beef here is served with Chimi-Churri, which is a mixture of spices, vinager, and oil. It is always served on the side, and is up to you if you want to put it on your steak!

Some of the cuts of beef here are different, so many times there is no exact translation. Here is a list of the most common, in Spanish and English, and I explain what each cut is like.

Ojo de bife (Rib-Eye) – this is my favorite cut of meat. It is usually fairly tender, well marbled, with excellent flavor.Bife de Lomo (Filet Mignon) – the most expensive cut, also the most tender. Should have very little to no fat. Flavor is good, but not as strong as some of the other cuts. In general, one of the best things you can order on the menu. Filets here in Argentina are deliciously tender!

Bife de Chorizo (new york strip loin) – a good Argentine bife de chorizo is prettty hard to beat.  This cut is from the same part of the cow as a strip loin, so you can expect a juicy and very flavorful cut of meat.  There is some marbeling, and if you get a cheap cut, it can be really fatty.

Vacío (flank steak) – this is a delicious cut of meat and it is not available in most parts of the world. It is a thin cut of meat, from the flank, and has a thin layer of fat on both sides. A good quality vacío is tender, flavorful and very juicy, contains no fat (other than the layer surrounding it.   Argentines love this cut (it is a must have at an asado), especially how the outside gets crispy when cooked slowly over coals.  It is also an interesting cut for foreigners because it is usually a cut they have never tried.  It is important to get good quality vacío, or you could end up with a leathery piece of meat, with more fat than anything else.

Asado/Asado de Tira (short/cross cut ribs) – they are served differently than in North America, as the ribs are cut very short. There is not usually a lot of meat around the ribs, but they are quite flavorful. Another staple that is always served at an Argentine asado.

Asado de Costillar (beef rib) – this is not a common cut in Argentine, but if you can find them, they are delicious! The meat is very tender and juicy, and without too much fat. They are usually preferable to the standard asado de tira, because they are far meatier!

Matambre (similar to a flank steak) – a tougher cut, but can be very juicy and flavorful.  It can be found in various thicknesses, and is often served with a layer of fat on one side.  It is similar to a flank steak,  but comes from a part just beside it.  This cut is not usually found in North America.

Colita de Cuadril (rump steak) – this is the tail end of the rump. Great cut, can be done on the BBQ, or makes a great roast in the oven. Flavorful, very juicy, and very little fat.

Bola de Lomo (knuckle) – located just beside the colita de cuadril, this is the most common cut for milanesas and for lomito sandwiches.  It is a decent cut and can be found very cheap in Argentina.  It is juicy, fairly tender, and does not contain much fat.

Tapa de Nalga (top inside round) – Located beside the Bola de Lomo off of the cows leg near the kneecap.  A very cheap cut, it is somewhat tough.  Is mostly used in stews.

Peceto (eye of round) – comes from the very top of the cow’s rump.  This is a great cut usually used for roasts, but is also sometimes cut into medallions to be served as milanesas.  It is a bit tough, but has good flavor and very little fat.

Entraña (skirt steak) – a bit tough, but very flavorful and juicy. This is a fairly common piece of meat for Argentine asados.

Bife Angosto (strip loin) – located along the back of the cow, from the back ribs to the rump. Lots of marbeling, and usually one edge is covered in fat. A cheap option for beef, and usually a bit tough.

There you have it, the major cuts of Argentine Beef. There are still some other cuts, if you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment and I will answer what I can.

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Here is a list of some of the best wines you can buy in different price brackets, depending on what you´re looking for.

Great wines that cost 10 pesos or less

With the heavy inflation Argentina has experienced over the last few years, there is no longer a good variety of quality wine for less than 10 pesos.  However, here are a few very drinkable wines, perfect for every day drinking.

El Vasco Viejo 2007 (Lopez) $6.80 – This is one of my favorite wines when it comes to value.  It is a blend of Bonarda, Malbec, and Tempranillo, and the grapes come from the Lopez vineyards in Maipu and Lujan de Cuyo.  Fruity and easy to drink, a decent wine, and when you consider the price, an incredible value!  Our top choice for a budget, everyday wine.

Traful White 2008 (Lopez) $7 – Another one from Lopez, props to them for good cheap wines.  This one is a blend of Chenin Blanc and Pedro Gimenez from the Maipu region. It is light and fruity with a slight floral nose, and a decent finish for a cheap white.

Tocornal (Concho y Toro Tinto) $6.50 – fruity and easy to drink.  Nothing special, but a solid choice for what you´re paying.

Fina Beltrán Dúo Tempranillo-Malbec (Zuccardi) $9.90 – This rare combination turns out to be a nice wine.  The combination of a fruity Malbec with the fullness and spice of a Tempranillo make this a wine with complex flavors, and great with steak.

Aberdeen Angus Clasico Borgoña (Finca Flinchman) $9.50 – Mainly Malbec blended Bonarda, this wine has tastes more like a Cabernet than the two grapes it’s made from.  Another good wine for your steak.

Valderrobles Chablis 2008 (Esmeralda) $7.50- a pleasant fruity wine with a nice citrus finish.   A great drinking wine, but would also go well with food.

Great wines that cost 20 pesos or less

Wines that were under 10 pesos before are now around 15 pesos.  There is a great selection for wines at this price range, here are five of the best.

Quara Torrontes 2007 (Felix Lavaque) $18 – located in Salta, Quara makes some of the best Torontes in the world.   Floral aromas prepare you for the strong peach flavors mixed with hints of jasmine and lemon, followed by a nice, satisfying finish.   This is a flavorful Torrontes, a great value and a versatile summer wine.

Grafigna Vinculos Syrah-Cabernet (Grafigna) $13 – a fruity and easy to drink wine, this is a crowd pleaser.

Callia Alta Shiraz-Bonarda 2008(Callia) $14 – Pretty much any wine with Shiraz from Callia Alta is worth buying.  This blend is an Expose favorite – complex rich fruit flavors, nicely rounded with typical shiraz spice,nice acidity, and smooth tanins.  A great wine that will hold up to any food with strong flavors, but is also great on its own.

Trilogie Malbec – Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2007 (Domaine Vistalba) $15 – A great blend of three varieties – dark fruit flavors, a hint of green and red peppers, and a hint of vanilla.  Very nice, and an excellent value.

Humberto Canal Semillon 2007(Humberto Canale) – $20 – another excellent value.  Floral aromas lead to an intense honey flavor with floral notes and a touch of peach.  This is a refreshing, complex wine with loads of flavor.

Great wines that cost 30 pesos or less

You can start to find some really impressive wines in this price range.  These five are outstanding, highly recommended!

Cabarello de la Cepa – Malbec 2007 $30 – the Caballero de la Cepa line of wines from Finca Flinchman is excellent, and this one is arguably the best.  Rich fruit flavors with a hint of vanilla and spice, nicely balanced and a great finish.

Trapiche – Fond de Cave Chardonnay 2006 -$26 – this wine is an amazing value.  It is bursting with flavor, and has a very long finish.  Easily one of the best whites you´ll find in this price range.

Altos Las Hormigas Bonarda 2007(Colonia Las Liebres) $30 – a wine that truly makes you believe the Argentine Bonarda could be the next Malbec. A velvety wine with rich fruit flavors, this is a nearly perfectly wine, showing off the best of Bonarda.

**This wine is very difficult to find.

Perdriel Terruño Malbec 2007 (Norton) $21 – An excellent Malbec for a very good price, this tastes just like a Malbec should.  It has a rich combination of plum, red fruit, eucalyptus, and coffee flavors, and is a very versatile wine.

Graffigna Centenario (Graffigna) Pinot Gris – $26 – A complex blend of floral and peach/apricot flavor, with a very long citrusy finish.  This wine is very crisp, making it a great wine to sip in the summer, but also great with a meal.

Great Wines that Cost less than 50 Pesos

Argentine wines can blow you away at this price.  If you are a tourist, these wines are somewhere in the US $10/  € 8 range.   You should definitely take advantage!

Amalaya 2006 (Colomé) $37 - This has been rated as a wine of great value in various wine magazines, including the prestigious Wine Spectator, which gave it 91 pts.  It is a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Tannat.  It is full of rich fruit flavors, green pepper, a hint of spice, and nice, loooooong finish.  A wine that pleases everyone.

Amalaya Torrontoes 2006 (Colomé) 2007 $36 – What can I say?  Colomé definitely knows how to make great wines.  This Torrontes is one of the best out there, and has been recognized in the past with various awards.  It has intense flavors of honey, caramel, apricot, and citrus.  Not a typical Torrontes, but definitely one of the most pleasing.

Perdriel Merlot 2004 (Norton) $45 – Argentina is not known for good Merlots, and there is a reason for this.  However, this one is definitely an exception and is one of our favorite Merlots.  Rich velvety texture, this has delicious dark and dried fruit flavors, with a hint of spice and chocolate.

Alamos Reserve Tempranillo 2005 (Catena Zapata) $37 – The entire Alamos line is a solid choice if you’re looking for a quality wine.  However, they are badly overpriced in the Argentine market (in the International market they are priced much more competitively, and therefore a much better bargain). This Tempranillo is an exception, and well worth the money.   Rich, complex fruit flavors with hints of mint and spice, this is a meaty wine that can hold up to any cut of Argentine beef, even if you cover it in chimichurri.

Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2007 $40 (Altos Las Hormigas) – This may be the ultimate Malbec.  If you are looking for a great Malbec to bring back home, or you just want to try an amazing, typical Argentine Malbec, this should be the one.  A strong, flavorful wine with rich, dark fruit flavors, strong but not overpowering tannins, and a hint of vanilla.  Perfect for asado, a wine to appreciate.

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Ashley Barnes resides in Buenos Aires, Argentina as a freelance writer, photographer and creator of Entre Argentina Tours”, a tourism business dedicated to connecting tourists to the best wine tours, art tours, and restaurants in Buenos Aires and throughout Argentina.

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The festival is essentially two events that happen at the same time. The first is a huge tango festival, which can be described as “everything relating to tango.” The highlight is all of the tango shows, ranging from traditional to electronic tango, and some of them by the best known tango groups in the world. You get to see loads of tango performances, and all of them for free!

Nonetheless, this festival is much more than just watching tango.  If you are interested in learning more about tango, as well as how to dance, there are free seminars and dance classes. These classes are put on by some of the finest teachers in the city, and are available for both beginners and advanced.

Some other highlights of the event:

• A Tango fair, which sells all sorts of products relating to tango – specifically clothes, music, and art.
• A selection of cinema about tango
• The presentation of books about tango
• Clinics for tango musicians, or anyone interested in tango music
• Conferences

To finish off the two weeks of tango is the World Tango Championships. The top tango dancers in the world compete to be named as the top dancers in the categories of Tango Salon and Tango Escenario.  If you are not familiar with tango, you probably do not know the difference between the two, and for most people, Tango Escenario is by far the more appealing to watch.  Here is a very basic definition:

Tango Salon:  tango dancers dance in couples on stage, at the same time as various other couples.

Tango Escenario: each couple dances alone on stage to their chosen song, using their choreographed routine.

Although all performances and events are free, you still have to pick up tickets.   Most of these have to be picked up within the first few days of the festival, and if you miss it, you won’t be able to get into most shows. For more information, visit the main site at http://www.mundialdetango.gob.ar/.

When: End of August
Where: Various locations throughout the capital
Why: You have even the slightest desire to see Tango or to learn more about it.

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According to Wikipediait was invented by the Dr. Enrique Ernesto Febbraro, to celebrate the arrival of man on the moon. It is celebrated in Uruguay and Brazil on the same day, and in other South American countries on different days. By far the most popular way to celebrate is to have dinner with friends. This usually includes going out, and many restaurants take advantage of this by creating special menus for the dia del amigo. Going for drinks is also popular, so most bars are full as well. Basically, it is a great excuse to see some friends who you haven´t seen for a while, and to let them know you still care.

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Here is my monthly budget for Buenos Aires – what you can expect to spend. For more detailed information, see below.

Apartments in Buenos Aires

Variations in cost are because it depends on the location, size, and quality of your apartment. These prices are all based on apartments that you´d find in the most popular neighbourhoods for travellers:  San Telmo, Recoleta, Centro, Barrio Norte, Palermo, Belgrano, Colegiales, Villa Crespo.

A room in a shared apartment: $ 950+

**This usually includes internet, phone, cable, condo expenses, etc.

Your own studio apartment, as a temporary furnished rental: $2100 +

**This usually includes internet, phone, cable, condo expenses, etc.

Your own one bedroom, as a temporary furnished rental: $2300 +

**This usually includes internet, phone, cable, etc.

Your own studio, renting long term with a garantia: $1000+

**this includes apartment fees (known as expensas). But not things like phone, internet, cable, and electricity.

Your own one bedroom, renting long term with a garantia: $1200+

**this includes apartment fees. But not things like phone, internet, cable, and electricity.

Extras

Internet: $65 – $145 depending on company and if you can get a special starting offer. This is for 3M high speed cable, DSL or ADSL. Also can depend on the arrangement your building has with the internet company.

Cable TV: $80+

Electricity: $20+  *Much higher if you use electric heat or air conditioning.

Phone: $25+  *$25 gets you a phone line, but you have to pay to make calls to cell phones and of course, long distance.

New cell phone: $100 and up, for an unlocked pay as you go phone (although they are hard to find at that price)

Cell phone monthly payments: $20+  Can be a plan or pay as you go.  $20 would be if you don´t make many calls, only lots of texts

Laundry Detergent: $6 for 500g

Body Wash: $8-$10 for 250 ml

Shampoo: $10 250ml Pantene shampoo

Clarín Newspaper: $2.50 during the week

Toothpaste: $3 – $10

Internet Cafe: $1.50 – $3.00 per hour

Food

Food will probably cost you about $500 – $600 pesos a month. If you are very careful about eating cheaply, and don´t eat a lot of expensive meat or chicken, you might be able to keep it between $3350 – $400.

Cheap cuts of meat: $15 – $35 per kilo

Good cuts of meat: $25 – $85 per kilo

Full Chicken: $15 – $30

Skinned and boned chicken breast: $25 – $35 per kilo

Salmon filet: $45 – $85 per kilo

Hake: $20 – $22

500 ml extra virgin olive oil: $15 – $25

Can of tuna: $3 – $9

500g Rice: $4 – $9

1KG bag pasta: $4 – $7

Jar of Jam: $7 – $25

6 eggs: $3 – $6

1L Milk: $2.75 – $5

500g Coffee:  $12 – $40

Fruits and Veggies (per Kilo)

**The variation is how the price per kilo varies throughout the year, and also depends on where you buy your produce**

Red Pepper: $4 – $14

Avocado: $8 – $14

Carrots: $3 – $5

Zucchini: $3 – $8

Tomatoes: $3 – $8

Potatoes: $2 – $4

Onion: $2.50 – $4

Bananas: $4 – $5

Apples: $4 – $8

Plums: $4 – $8

Strawberries: $8 – $30

Kiwi: $8 – $12

Mandarins: $2 – $3

Lemons: $5 – $12

Entertainment

Prices are the usual costs. It can be higher or lower, depending on where you go.

Movie: $16 – $25 in a nice theater

Bottle of decent wine: $8 – $20

Bottle of very good wine: $20 and up

1L beer: $2.70 – $5.00

Entrance to clubs: $20 – $50

Bottle of beer in bar/club: $6 – $20

Highball: $12 – $35

Entrée in a nice restaurant: $35 – $65

Glass of wine in a nice restaurant: $12 – $25

Bottle of mediocre to decent wine in a nice restaurant: $25 – $60

Dinner for two, incl. 1 appetizer, two main courses, one dessert, and a bottle of wine:

*Cheap restaurant:  $100

*Nice restaurant:  $175

Dessert in a nice restaurant: $12 – $25

Theater: $20 – $250+

Museum: Free – $25

Live music show: $15 – $100+

Transportation

Taxi: $3.80 and up

Bus: $1.10 – $1.75

Subway: $1.10

Train: $0.80-$4.30 (mainly used to go from the suburbs into Buenos Aires).

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Maybe we should start at the beginning….

1) Open your page to the front index which starts with the obvious letter, “A”.
Wait! Before you get to overwhelmed with the small writing that is blurring together in front of you, remember that this index from A-Z, lists the name of EVERY street in Buenos Aires! How great, right?

2) Flip through to the first “Plano” and notice that there are a total of 36. Each Plano displays a different part of the city. Complete with all the streets and street numbers. Now all we have to do is figure out which Plano to use and when. Easy!

3) Say you want to go to, Balcarce 1073, which is in the neighborhood of San Telmo. Well, flip to the massive front index and go to “B”. Got it? Great. You will see the option of choosing from the address numbers 1-850, and 851-1500 (every street will have a different option of addresses to choose from depending on how far that street stretches throughout the city).

Ok, we want Balcarce 1073, which would be in the 851-1500 category, and we can see that it is listed as “25-C1”.

What is this all about? Stay with me here folks.

Well, it means Plano 25 (go ahead and turn to Plano 25).

C-1 is how you can locate Balcarce 1073 using the grid system that each Plano provides.

Under the letter “C” next to the number “1” on Plano 25, is where you will squint your eyes and search for the street “Balcarce”. There it is! Now check the numbers running along side of the street and locate Balcarce 1073.

4) Ok, so you found the street. Well, now what? As you can see on the left side of the book there are a bunch of random numbers squeezed into little squares. Well, go back to the grid system.

On C-1, on the left side of the book (as opposed to the right side where you are looking at the Plano), you can see all the busses that go to where you want to end up!

O great…. the number 22 goes to this area. To see what busses pass right by you, use the same technique but this time with the address you are starting from.

So, hop on that bus and get going to San Telmo!

But what street does this bus go down? Where is it going to drop me off?

Flip to the back where all the busses are listed by their number and their route. Since we are heading down to San Telmo from, let’s say, Palermo, you want to look under “regreso”. You see a great number of streets this bus goes down, Bolivar is one of them. Hooray! Bolivar is right next to where I want to go. Ok, you are getting off at Bolivar and walking two blocks to Balcarce. Sound good?

Don’t’ worry, you will get the hang of it and you will become one of the many that walk these streets with a little book worn and torn from all the use you will get from it. One fine day, you will put the little GUIA-T down with a map permanently embedded in your brain.

BA Bus Culture

• When you get on the bus you will tell the bus-driver how much money you want to deposit. This depends on how far you are going. The average amount is 1.20 pesos.
• Get on and off the bust fast. It is always surprising to see the things in Buenos Aires in which they take their leisurely time, and the things that they don’t. Getting off the bus would definitely be an example of stop and GO!
• When getting off, stand by the middle door and press the button to notify the driver your stop is approaching. The button may not work, which is fine. The driver will see you and stop.
• If a woman with a child, pregnant woman, older man or woman get on the bus, it is proper to offer your seat if no other seats are available.
• Hold on to your purses and bags while on the bus. It can get crowded and it is better to watch your things closely.

Last but certainly not least….Enjoy the ride!

Ashley Barnes resides in Buenos Aires, Argentina as a freelance writer, photographer and creator of “Entre Argentina Tours“, a tourism business dedicated to connecting tourists to the best wine tours, art tours, and restaurants in Buenos Aires and throughout Argentina.

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The park is ideal for a picnic, or for anyone kids who want to play outside, or even for anyone wanting to kick around a ball.  The park is always full of families, but also couples, young and old, who want to enjoy the sunshine.  There are numerous playgrounds, which is another reason why there are so many families that attend Parque Saavedra.  There is even a bocci ball court, frequented mostly by older men, strutting their stuff and fighting to become the day´s bocci champion.

On weekends, there is small fair with merchants selling everyday type goods (new and used) for low prices – books, clothes, soaps, toys etc. The park is located in the Saavedra barrio, which is right near the northern edge of capital federal.  It is a charming, quiet neighborhood, and is worth walking around when you leave the park.

Bottom Line: A beautiful park with lots of green grass to relax on, located in one of Buenos Aires’s more attractive residential neighborhoods.

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In Argentina, fernet is everywhere.  A coke and fernet is one of the most popular drinks among young people in Buenos Aires, if you go to a bar, a house party, or a disco.  If you are trying it for the first time, make sure to add lots of coke, this will help sweeten it and make it more drinkeable.

To prepare, you will need:
Ice
Fernet (Branca is the best brand, according to most people).
Coke
Highball glass
Slice of lime

Fill glass with ice.  Add one ounce of fernet, fill with coke, and garnish with a lime.

Fernet Menta (mint)
Fernet Menta is a mint version of the original fernet, and was invented by Branca.  It isn´t as strong (20% alc, compared to 43%), and is much sweeter.  It is typically served with sprite, and makes a green radioctive looking cocktail.  Fun and easy to drink.

To prepare, you will need:
Ice
Fernet Menta
Sprite
Highball glass
Slice of lime

Fill glass with ice.  Add 1.5 shots of fernet menta.  Fill glass with sprite, and garnish with a slice of lime.

Gancia Batida
Gancia is an Italian aperitif, but is commonly used for cocktails at bars and clubs in Buenos Aires.   This drink is sweet, slightly thicker than wine, and has a bitter aftertaste.   The alcohol content is only 14.8%.

The most common cocktail made with Gancia is a Gancia Batida, which is a light, refreshing drink.

To prepare, you will need:
Ice
6 oz Gancia
1 oz lemon juice
1 spoon sugar
Cocktail Glass
Slice of lemon

Add all ingredients to a shaker, and shake until sugar has dissolved.  Garnish with lemon slice.

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Buenos Aires is where cumbia digital started, and if you are in BA now, don’t miss a chance to see it where it all began.   ZIzek nights feature electronic music that can best be described as a mash up of cumbia with reggaeton, dancehall, hip-hop and any possible variation you can think of.    Think lots of hip-hop/reggaton samples, with that signature rolling cumbia rythm.  Nevertheless, as Cumbia Digital becomes more popular, more and more DJs are popping up around the world, which is leading to the mixing of new and different sounds and the evolution of a genre.   Zizek continues to push the boundaries of the music they started, and the style is now more of a mashup of traditional/indigenous music and rythms with electronic overlays and hip hop samples.

For more information, including music and future club nights, visit:   http://zzkrecords.com/

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